From Sea to Shining Sea

Heceta Beach in Florence, Oregon, May 1, 2019

Heceta Beach in Florence, Oregon, May 1, 2019

Nantasket Beach in Hull, Massachusetts, July 4, 2019

Nantasket Beach in Hull, Massachusetts, July 4, 2019

I have always loved riding on the morning of the Fourth of July. It is the quietest morning of the summer — it is almost as quiet as Christmas morning, but in Minnesota I didn’t do much riding on Christmas mornings. Few people are out at first, and those that are tend to be riding or running or otherwise enjoying the outdoors. As the morning wears on, it gets busier, but everyone is in a festive mood, often in small community parades.

I got an early start for the final ride of the trip, rolling out among the quiet suburbs of Boston about 7:00 AM. I was rewarded by quiet roads and peaceful scenery (though no barns).

Charles River, Massachusetts

Charles River, Massachusetts

Needham, Massachusetts

Needham, Massachusetts

For the first half hour of the ride I saw more cyclists and runners than cars.

Traffic picked up a bit as I neared the Blue Hills Reservation (park) in Milton, as people came out to enjoy the holiday morning with a hike in the park. In the middle of the park, I got a glimpse of downtown Boston in the distance.

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I continued into the southern suburbs of Boston, heading toward Hingham, the town I lived in until I was six years old. I reached Hingham about 9:30.

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I rode on to stop by the house we called home in Hingham. Teen children of the family that lives there now were just heading off to the Hingham Fourth of July Parade, and they thought it was cool that I lived there in the late 50s and early 60s. Their family has lived in the house since 1997.

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A short ride after that, Toni and I met Ryan and Kyle, who had flown from LA to ride the last few miles with me. Niece Karen and her mom Joan had picked up Ryan and Kyle at the Hingham Ferry, which they had taken over from downtown. Ryan, Kyle and I then headed off for the beach, about five miles away.

On our way, we passed by locals walking to the Hingham parade, and then dodged the beach-going traffic. We arrived at Nantasket Beach about 11:00.

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Finally, I could go no further east without a boat. The ride was over!

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I’ll be posting a few follow ups in the next day or two, including thanks to all who helped make this possible and perhaps a few reflections on what we learned.

We are flying back to LA next week, leaving the RV on the east coast until the fall. We plan to come back east in the fall and drive the RV around New England to see the fall colors, then drive it back to the west coast.

The Technical Stuff for Today’s Ride (info on the full ride follows below)

Natick, MA to Nantasket Beach, Hull, MA

40 miles

1,420 feet of climbing.

Average speed 14.2 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sunshine and humid all day. Temperatures around 70 to start and mid-80s at the end. Winds calm.

The Technical Stuff for the Entire Ride

Heceta Beach, in Florence, Oregon to Nantasket Beach in Hull, Massachusetts (excluding Wyoming and a bit of Ohio)

Total miles ridden since May 1 (including a few side trips not reflected on the map below): 3,383.8

Total feet of climbing (some estimated due to Garmin problems): 116,000

Total riding time: 233 hours

Average speed: 14.5 MPH

Headed for the Barn

There were a few barns sighted on today’s ride, but the most important barn was the figurative barn at the end of the ride: my niece Karen’s home in Natick, a suburb of Boston. I still have a short 40 mile ride to the beach tomorrow, but this is where we will be staying the next few days after the ride ends, so it really felt like the proverbial horse rushing to the barn at the end of the day.

The feeling was compounded by the fact that most of the ride was on busy, sometimes poorly maintained Massachusetts roads with narrow shoulders, the day grew increasingly warm (ending around 90), and I was accompanied by Karen’s husband, Jeff, an experienced cyclist.

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Together, for most of the ride, we just put our heads down and drove to the finish line. Near the end, Jeff took over leading us in as we were in his neighborhood, so I was freed from having to keep glancing at the cue sheet.

As a result of this pace, we finished early, but had little time to take pictures. Quite frankly, most of what I saw was the narrow strip of road ahead of me, which required all my attention. We did see a few traditional New England churches, like this one in Templeton.

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And there were a few barns.

Erving, Massachusetts (solar panels, again!)

Erving, Massachusetts (solar panels, again!)

Athol, Massachusetts

Athol, Massachusetts

Bolton, Massachusetts

Bolton, Massachusetts

Sudbury, Massachusetts

Sudbury, Massachusetts

The Technical Stuff

Northfield, MA to Natick, MA

79.8 miles

3,622 feet of climbing.

Average speed 14.7 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sunshine all day. Temperatures mid-60s to start and around 90 at the end. Winds calm.

You can see the entire route to date here.

The Queen's Stage

In multi-day bicycle races, like the Tour de France, one stage near the end of the race is often informally characterized as “The Queen’s Stage.” It may not be the longest or the most difficult stage, but it has some distinguishing characteristic (such as a notable climb) and is close enough to the end that the stage can be decisive to the outcome of the race.

Today was my Queen’s Stage. It was not as long as yesterday’s ride and did not involve as much climbing, though at 70+ miles and over 5,400 feet of climbing, it was no walk in the park either. But the climb that came at the end qualified the day as the Queen’s Stage. It was three miles long, nearly one thousand feet of climbing, had two pitches that were 10% or more, one of which reached about 20% for about 150 meters. What’s a 3,300 mile bicycle trip without at least one 20% pitch? At the end of the 20% pitch I was spent and felt a decided sense of accomplishment. After a brief rest, I finished the remaining two miles of the climb to the end of the ride at my brother’s house in Northfield, Massachusetts.

I was joined for the grueling part of the ride by my nephew Bill and his son Ethan, who drove down from Maine to ride with me for the last 10 miles or so. Here we are before we headed off on the ride.

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And here as we started out up the steepest part of the climb.

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In the early part of the ride, we wound around Pittsfield and nearby Dalton, Massachusetts, and I distinctly felt we were in New England, with streamside mills and colonial style houses.

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After we left the Pittsfield area, we spent most of the rest of the day in the cool forests and running streams of the Berkshire Mountains.

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We later descended into the Connecticut River valley, and crossed it and the Miller River, one of its tributaries.

Connecticut River

Connecticut River

MIller River

MIller River

We returned to agricultural land in the valley, and saw crops of potatoes, cut flowers, corn and, for the first time since Oregon, hops.

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We also passed through historic Deerfield and its preserved architecture.

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We ended the day with a lobster dinner and champagne to celebrate my brother’s birthday.

Here are today’s barns. There would be more, but there were so many distinctive barns on today’s route that I would still be riding if I had stopped to photograph each of them.

Windsor, Massachusetts

Windsor, Massachusetts

Windsor, Massachusetts

Windsor, Massachusetts

Cummington, Massachusetts

Cummington, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts (yes, those are solar panels on the roof)

Ashfield, Massachusetts (yes, those are solar panels on the roof)

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Ashfield, Massachusetts

Conway, Massachusetts

Conway, Massachusetts

Northfield, Massachusetts

Northfield, Massachusetts

The Technical Stuff

Pittsfield, MA to Northfield, MA

70.8 miles

5,435 feet of climbing.

Average speed 12.3 miles per hour

Weather: Overcast in the morning with “spot showers” as the weather service called them (mostly just sprinkles). Bright sunshine in the afternoon. Temperatures around 60 to start, low 80s at the end. Winds light and variable.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Another Day at the Carnival

If Sunday was the day for playing whack-a-mole, Monday was the day for roller coasters. Monday’s ride had fewer big long climbs (though it had its share of those too), but it had lots of quick up and downs. Often there was enough momentum from a descent to get well up the following ascent before having to dig in.

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That didn’t make the ride any easier Monday, and it felt like the hardest ride of the trip. It was nearly 100 miles long and included 6,200 feet of climbing. It involved the longest day in the saddle (if only by 3 minutes), 20% more climbing than any other day, and more feet of climbing per mile than any other day except the Black Hills.

But there was also plenty of beautiful riding to go with the effort. We started out with more beautiful views of the Mohawk Valley.

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We eventually descended into the Schenectady/Albany/Area. There was a bit of mostly suburban riding, but then I was able to join the Mohawk Hudson Bike Trail as it wound along the Mohawk River .

 
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After exiting the trail, there was a relatively brief ride through the heart of Troy before we were back in the country again. About halfway between Troy and the Massachusetts border we passed beautiful Burden Lake. It was late enough in a hard, warm day that I was tempted to go for a swim.

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As we neared the Massachusetts line, the mountains came closer together than they were Sunday and earlier Monday. This is in far eastern New York looking into Massachusetts.

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Finally, in the midst of a long, last climb for the day, we crossed the Massachusetts border, entering the last of 13 states on the trip (including Wyoming and Colorado, in each of which I rode at least 20 miles).

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Here are today’s barns.

Canajoharie, New York

Canajoharie, New York

Canajoharie, New York

Canajoharie, New York

Sprakers, New York

Sprakers, New York

Esperance, New York

Esperance, New York

Delanson, New York

Delanson, New York

Schenectady, New York

Schenectady, New York

New Lebanon, New York

New Lebanon, New York

Hancock Shaker Village, Massachusetts

Hancock Shaker Village, Massachusetts

The Technical Stuff

Sharon Springs, NY to Pittsfield, MA

97.1 miles

6,200 feet of climbing.

Average speed 12.7 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sunshine with a few high clouds. Temperatures around 60 to start, low 80s at the end. Winds light and variable.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Whack-A-Mole

Today’s ride was like playing whack-a-mole with the terrain and the weather.

The terrain was predictable. I knew the ride was going to be lumpy. Here is the profile for the day’s ride as planned.

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But the hills became tedious.  After reaching the top of each climb, another hill seemed to pop up immediately.

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The weather was less predictable.  There were intermittent showers for much of the day, and after we more or less successfully dodged each downpour, another dark cloud would pop up and start heading our way.

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In the end, I managed to stay relatively dry, either by dodging the shower or by strategically ducking into the van and waiting out a shower. 

 The climbing was rewarded by the end of the day, as one final climb, after all threats of showers had passed, led us to a view over the Mohawk Valley.

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By this time, the road had become quiet and peaceful as well.

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There was even a daisy spangled lea (as in Ed Trickett’s “Scarborough Settler’s Lament”)

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I then enjoyed a long down hill run into Sharon Springs, were we enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The American Hotel where we are staying for the night.

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Here are today’s barns.

Cazenovia, New York

Cazenovia, New York

Fenner, New York

Fenner, New York

Munnsville, New York

Munnsville, New York

Cassville, New York

Cassville, New York

Ilion, New York

Ilion, New York

Canajoharie, New York

Canajoharie, New York


The Technical Stuff

Cazenovia, NY to Sharon Springs, NY

82.0 miles

5,600 feet of climbing.

Average speed 12.8 miles per hour

Weather: Considerably cloudy with periods of sunshine. Intermittent showers, Temperatures mid-60s all day. Winds 15-20 miles per hour, mostly tail winds, but variable in direction.

You can see the entire route to date here.

History and Beauty in the Finger Lakes

Friday was scheduled to be a rest day, but our friends Paul and Lori Whitstock from DC were at their summer place just a short ride away, so we converted our rest day into a “rolling rest day” and I rode down to their place on Cayuga Lake.

Our route started out through Seneca Falls, where we had driven for dinner the night before. Seneca Falls is the home of Elizabeth Cady Stanton and the 1848 Women’s Rights Convention. This is her restored home just across the river from downtown.

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The town itself is beautiful, with Trinity Church on the shores of Van Cleef Lake looking for all the world like a castle on the shores of a European river or lake.

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Many beautiful houses in Seneca Falls have been maintained in their 19th century grandeur.

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I left Seneca Falls along a busy stretch of, you guessed it, US 20, but shortly turned south along the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake on a quieter road. The 20 or so miles down the lake gave me regular views of the lake and the agricultural land in the area, including vineyards, both recently established (the blue flags indicate new vines) and old.

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About halfway down the lake, we passed through the village of Aurora, home of Wells College. Paul and Lori told us that Pleasant Rowland, the creator of the American Girl dolls collection, has used the proceeds of the sale of her business to Mattel to fund substantial restoration of historic buildings in Aurora, including at the college, and the tourism business seems to be thriving in the small village.

We reached a winery near Paul and Lori’s in time for lunch and tasting with them before relaxing at their lakeshore house in the afternoon.

Here are Friday’s barns.

Seneca Falls, NY.  Yes, that is the tail of a model airplane sticking out the right side.  The barn is the home of a model aircraft club.

Seneca Falls, NY. Yes, that is the tail of a model airplane sticking out the right side. The barn is the home of a model aircraft club.

Cayuga, NY

Cayuga, NY

Aurora, NY

Aurora, NY

King Ferry, NY

King Ferry, NY

The technical stuff:

Seneca Falls, NY to Aurora, NY

37.7 miles

1,500 feet of climbing.

Average speed 13.5 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sunshine. Mid 60s to start and high 80s at the end. Winds light and variable.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Variety is the Spice of Upstate New York

Thursday’s ride took us from near Batavia, skirting well outside of Rochester, New York, and into the heart of the Finger Lakes in Waterloo and Seneca Falls. The ride was marked by variety, from the agricultural land we usually see, to old industrial sites, to ex-urbs that represented the fingers of Rochester reaching into the rural areas to its south, to small villages, and finally into the Finger Lakes region.

We saw one last winery from the Great Lakes region as we headed away from both Lake Erie and Ontario. It was early in the day, so we did not stop.

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Well preserved 19th century houses shared the countryside with open fields.

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And then the road lead through cool, shaded woods.

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Around the next corner, we came across an old (and still operating) quarry site. The shovel shown here dates from the early 20th century and is thought to be the same type that was used to construct the Panama Canal; the trucks that came out of the quarry across the street were more modern!

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I have not mentioned the numerous graveyards our route has passed. When you ride through the back country, you realize that there are a lot of farms and a lot of graveyards. This graveyard near Mumford, NY was particularly picturesque.

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We also came across this reminder of the days when the village blacksmith was a central part of the town.

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The blacksmith’s building was in the village of Shortville, and we passed through a number of active villages. Clifton Springs, which developed in the mid-19th century when its waters were thought to be healing, continues as an active community based around the Clifton Springs Hospital and Clinic. This old hotel used by those coming to “take the cure” has been converted into a large apartment building.

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And of course, there were barns. Lots of them. Here are some the interesting ones.

Byron, NY

Byron, NY

LeRoy, NY

LeRoy, NY

Wheatland, NY

Wheatland, NY

Wheatland, NY

Wheatland, NY

Rush, NY

Rush, NY

Rush, NY

Rush, NY

Victor, NY

Victor, NY

The technical stuff:

Batavia, NY to Seneca Falls, NY

71.8 miles

2,470 feet of climbing.

Average speed 14.2 miles per hour

Weather: High hazy clouds. Mid 60s to start and high 80s at the end. Winds light and variable.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Buffalo buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo Buffalo buffalo buffalo.*

Today’s ride from near Fredonia, New York to near Batavia, New York took us around the outskirts of Buffalo. We saw agricultural land to the west of Buffalo . . .

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And to the east of Buffalo . . .

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The main difference is that the land was a bit more rolling to the east, though you couldn’t tell from these pictures.

We also rode along the lakeshore west of Buffalo, home to many estates along the lakefront, clearly owned by wealthy residents of Buffalo.

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We crossed a few streams that ran into Lake Erie, some even with waterfalls — not quite Niagara Falls, but still charming.

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And then there was Buffalo itself.

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We didn’t get any closer than this, but there were signs of the city all around as we skirted the south and east sides of the city.

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And here are the barns around Buffalo.

Sheridan, New York

Sheridan, New York

Sheridan, New York

Sheridan, New York

Orchard Park, New York

Orchard Park, New York

Elma Center, New York

Elma Center, New York

Alden, New York

Alden, New York

Darien, New York

Darien, New York

Darien, New York

Darien, New York

The technical stuff:

Fredonia, NY to Batavia, NY

93.1 miles

2,566 feet of climbing.

Average speed 14.9 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sun with a few puffy clouds. Temperatures high 60’s to start and mid-80s at the end. Winds of 20 to 25 MPH, mostly tail winds

You can see the entire route to date here.

*This a complete and correctly capitalized and punctuated sentence, though probably the quirkiest I know. It can be recast as “Bison from Buffalo hoodwink bison from Buffalo that other bison from Buffalo hoodwink.

Beautiful? Yes. Burgundy? No.

As our hosts in Erie promised, we saw many vineyards today as we spent almost all day within a few hundred yards of Lake Erie.

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At some points, the grape vines were right up against the road, and I was reminded a little of a cycling trip to Burgundy Toni and I took several years ago.

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Burgundy was almost magical, with the neat rows of vines, the storied vintners, and its long history. The countryside we saw today was not nearly as memorable, but it was beautiful nonetheless. It also had a fetching variety of landscapes, with open fields, lovely brooks, stately homes on Lake Erie, and picturesque lighthouses.

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There were a some less picturesque sights on the road as well. A few of the vineyards were suffering from the wet spring and summer, and this one in particular looked like the vines were in danger.

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We also touched on some of the more industrial areas in upstate New York. The good news is that these were not all abandoned, though they certainly looked less busy than I assume they were in their heyday.

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In the spirit of Burgundy, we stopped at a couple of wineries, one in Pennsylvania (so we could say we tried Pennsylvania wine) and one at the end of the ride in New York. The latter is a Harvest Host, and we are camped among the vines as I write this.

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The wines offered by the winery we are staying at included a “Burgundy blend” and a “Chablis blend”. I was told the Chablis blend was Riesling and something else that was not Chardonnay, and the servers had no idea what was in the Burgundy blend. After tasting it, I didn’t either, except I knew it was not Pinot Noir or Gamay, the only red grapes allowed in Burgundy. I won’t even start on the legality of using the words “Burgundy” and “Chablis” on wines produced in the United States.

I’d say the wines were good whatever they were called, but they were not. Only the Ice Wine (for which this region is well suited) was worthwhile.

Of course, there were a few barns along the way today, though fewer than we have seen further away from the lake. Here they are, plus one non-barn that couldn’t be missed.

North East, Pennsylvania

North East, Pennsylvania

Ripley, New York

Ripley, New York

Westfield, New York

Westfield, New York

Brocton, New York

Brocton, New York

Dunkirk, New York

Dunkirk, New York

The technical stuff:

Erie, PA to Fredonia, NY

58.8 miles

1,619 feet of climbing.

Average speed 16.1 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sun with a few puffy clouds. Temperatures around 60 to start and mid-70s at the end. Tail winds of 15 to 20 MPH!

You can see the entire route to date here.

Are We There Yet?

If you draw a straight line from Heceta Beach in Oregon, where the ride started, to Nantasket Beach in Massachusetts, where the ride ends, the line is 2,691.3 miles long. As of the end of the day on Sunday, I had ridden 2,678.5 miles. I am only 12 miles away from having ridden across the country, right?

And we are also in Pennsylvania, which sort of borders the Atlantic and in any event is definitely an east coast state.

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Certainly, some of the small towns that we rode through Sunday had a northeastern flavor, with shaded town squares and wood frame houses.

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I also began to see some vineyards. There have been vineyards here and there all along the route, but I am told they will become more and more frequent as we move into New York — mostly Concord grapes. They are certainly not the well pruned vineyards of Sonoma and Napa.

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Amid these signs that we are in (or near) the east coast, there were still reminders of where we have come from and the connections between the two. Remember the picture of US 20 I posted as I headed over Santiam Pass in the Cascade Mountains on the third day of the trip? I spent about half an hour on US 20 again today, and will be on it occasionally over the coming week.

Oregon

Oregon

Ohio

Ohio

And just as we rode into Erie, I saw this store, right near Oregon Avenue.

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At the end of the day, Susan and Don Baxter, old friends from DC who now live in Erie and are hosting us through our rest day on Monday, insisted that Erie, which is only 90 miles from Cleveland, really thinks of itself as the midwest, even though it is in the east coast state of Pennsylvania.

The landscape, too, still had some of the forests and fields characteristic of the midwest.

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And I reminded my self that we still have nine riding days before we reach the beach in Massachusetts. So we aren’t there yet, but it’s getting so close I can taste it.

Here are Sunday’s barns (and an unattached silo I couldn’t pass up because I’d never seen a 100% brick silo).

Perry, Ohio

Perry, Ohio

Madison, Ohio

Madison, Ohio

Geneva, Ohio

Geneva, Ohio

Ashtabula, Ohio

Ashtabula, Ohio

West Springfield, Pennsylvania

West Springfield, Pennsylvania

Lake City, Pennsylvania

Lake City, Pennsylvania

Avonia, Pennsylvania

Avonia, Pennsylvania

Erie, Pennsylvania

Erie, Pennsylvania

The technical stuff:

Mentor, OH to Erie, PA

82.0 miles

2000 feet of climbing.

Average speed 14.3 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sun all day. Temperatures mid 50s to start 60 and mid-70s at the end. Winds calm.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Cleveland. Just Cleveland.

A friend of mine in Southern California keeps chickens for their eggs, and he once explained to me that the glory of chickens is that they are just chickens. You don’t name them, or pet them, or take them to the vet when they get sick. They just do their thing (lay eggs) and you enjoy them for what they are.

After riding through Cleveland today, I had the same reaction. It’s just Cleveland. It has its virtues. I know a few people who live or spend time in Cleveland, and they value it and contribute to it. Cleveland just does its thing, and you enjoy it for what it is.

We got an early start this morning because i knew we would be riding on roads that could be hard to ride on with much traffic and I wanted to get off the road before traffic picked up. We started on the outskirts of Cleveland with some open spaces mixed with suburban housing developments.

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About 15 miles into the ride, I reached the lakeshore with its view of the Cleveland skyline.

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A nice system of bike paths brought me into the center of town.

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On a beautiful early summer Saturday morning, there was plenty of activity on the lakefront, including a Black Girls Run event and a walk-a-thon.

I’m told that when in Cleveland I should stop at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, so I stopped long enough to take a picture (complete with walk-a-thon participants).

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After I left the downtown lakefront, I rode through the posh Bratenahl neighborhood, with its stately mansions along the lakefront.

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We finished the riding day by noon in Mentor, on the eastern edge of the Cleveland area where we relaxed and got some ice cream at a local favorite shop.

There were no barns per se today, though this shed in Avon came close.

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And there were gate houses in Bratenahl. Does that count?

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The technical stuff:

Elyria, OH to Mentor, OH

56.1 miles

1000 feet of climbing.

Average speed 13.9 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sun all day. Temperatures mid 50s to start 60 and mid-70s at the end. Winds calm.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Sometimes the Best Plan is to Stick With the Plan

Sticking with the plan is not always the best course. It certainly wasn’t Thursday, when sticking with the plan would have meant riding in a downpour for hours.

But Friday afternoon, in beautiful Bellevue, Ohio, I thought the best plan was to go off route a bit and avoid a stretch of busy road. Boy, was that a mistake.

But before I get to that, Friday dawned a clear, cool beautiful day for riding. We had to deal with some road construction before we got 500 yards from the hotel, but after a brief detour, we were on course and rolling through the Ohio countryside outside of Bowling Green. For the first time on the trip, we started to see some fields of grain, and at one point the country road I rode along was no wider than a driveway.

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The recent rains created a few speed bumps, like this point where I had to take off my shoes and socks and walk across water crossing the road.

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The rains on Thursday and earlier in the year have devastated local farmers, and it appears that the damage is even more widespread than in South Dakota. I’d say over half the fields we saw yesterday were either unplanted or were planted but looked like this.

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We stopped at a winery later in the day (see below), and the woman behind the counter said that the damage from rain is the big news in the area.

Eventually our route moved from agricultural lands to more residential and industrial areas closer to the shore of Lake Erie.

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At lunchtime, we reached the city of Bellevue, an industrial town that clearly is suffering. The downtown main street looked nearly deserted other than through traffic on US Highway 20.

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The highway traffic was enough, though, that I looked for a way to revise my route to avoid a choke point on the highway under a railroad bridge. After lunch, I set off on some side streets, where I started to run into more water covered roads. I thought I could pick my way around the water and the highway, but eventually came to a submerged road I had to walk across, and then ended up at a dead end in a railroad yard surrounded by chemical plants.

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I retraced my steps (including those through the water-covered road) and rejoined the original route, but added 4 miles and about a half hour to the day. Clearly a case where sticking to the original plan was the best plan.

The rest of the afternoon we passed through lovely small towns — including Milan, OH, the birthplace of Thomas Edison — and more agricultural areas, including the first fruit orchards we have seen on the trip.

 
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There was also this small, abandoned brick building in the middle of one field. I would have loved to know its story.

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Toward the end of the ride, we reached Vermillion Winery, in the Vermillion River Valley. It was refreshing to have some European varietals after a string of wineries with only North American varietals. Their Cabernet Franc, Gewurtztraminer and Chambourcin (a French-American hybrid) were reasonably good, though i did not walk away with any bottles.

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There were lots of barns along the way, and since there were none as we passed through Cleveland on Saturday, here is the full collection.

Bowling green, Ohio. Note the waterlogged fields.

Bowling green, Ohio. Note the waterlogged fields.

Pemberville, Ohio

Pemberville, Ohio

Pemberville, Ohio

Pemberville, Ohio

Pemberville, Ohio

Pemberville, Ohio

Bradner, Ohio (a three-fer)

Bradner, Ohio (a three-fer)

Gibsonburg, Ohio

Gibsonburg, Ohio

Not barns, but note the barn influence on this set of houses in Bellevue, Ohio

Not barns, but note the barn influence on this set of houses in Bellevue, Ohio

MIlan, Ohio

MIlan, Ohio

Wakeman-Florence, Ohio

Wakeman-Florence, Ohio

Amherst, Ohio

Amherst, Ohio

Amherst, Ohio (a “barn complex”)

Amherst, Ohio (a “barn complex”)

We ended the day in the city of Elyria, and industrial city on the outskirts of Cleveland.

Here’s the technical stuff.

The technical stuff:

Bowling Green to Elyria, OH

100.01 miles

1693 feet of climbing.

Average speed 13.2 miles per hour

Weather: Bright sun with a few fluffy clouds. Temperatures 60 to start and mid-70s at the end. Northwest winds of 10-15 MPH.

You can see the entire route to date here.

Yeah, no. Well, maybe. No, definitely no.

When we woke this morning, this was the view of our hotel.

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The photo doesn’t really do justice to the rain though. Suffice it to say, a half inch of rain fell in the hour surrounding when this picture was taken. So as for riding first thing in the morning? Yeah, no.

The rain was supposed to let up later, so I got ready to ride, but it was 1:00 before we could get going, and even then there was a steady shower. But the shower was due to pass, so I thought, “Well, maybe,” and headed out hoping to get a good bit of the planned 94 mile ride done. Unfortunately, the shower was moving at the speed of a bicycle, and it never really let up.

After two hours of riding, I reached the Ohio state line, and shortly after that I decided that was a meaningful enough milestone to call it a day.

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I dried off, got in the RV, and we drove to Bowling Green, Ohio, our destination for the day. It rained hard the whole way. So did I have any further thoughts of riding today? No, definitely no.

I did get in one good barn shot, just before I crossed the state line, complete with the waterlogged field next to it.

Butler, Indiana

Butler, Indiana

The technical stuff:

Kendalville, IN to Ohio State Line (then on to Bowling Green)

25.8 miles

939 feet of climbing.

Average speed 11.2 miles per hour

Weather: Showers for the entire ride. Temperature low to mid 60s. Winds east-northeast 10-15 MPH.

You can see the entire route to date here.

A Study in Contrasts

I mentioned yesterday that the landscape was becoming ex-urban, with agricultural land and residential development right next to each other. As we skirted the far outer reaches of the Chicago area today, this contrast was even more stark . We went through long stretches of purely agricultural land . . .

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interspersed with open parkland and forest preserves.

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Then we passed through a few small towns, including Sycamore, Illinois. The main street of Sycamore was a showcase of turn of the century houses.

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Finally, at the end of the day, I rode bicycle paths through planned suburban developments.

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The contrasts did not end there. Less than a mile from the end of the ride (at a McHotel right next to a major freeway), I passed through wooded parkland along the DuPage River.

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But the bridge in the background carried so much traffic, that I could neither cross to the bike path on the other side of the road, or ride on the road. I had to walk a quarter mile on the grass shoulder until I reached a controlled intersection.

Such is life on the border of the big city.

The variety of landscapes left plenty of rooms for barns, and Illinois redeemed itself from its dismal showing yesterday. Here they are.

Belvidere, Illinois

Belvidere, Illinois

Garden Prairie, Illinois

Garden Prairie, Illinois

Garden Prairie, Illinois

Garden Prairie, Illinois

Maple Park, Illinois

Maple Park, Illinois

Hinckley, Illinois

Hinckley, Illinois

Big Rock, Illinolis

Big Rock, Illinolis

The technical stuff:

Rockford, IL to Joliet, IL

93.7 miles

1,500 feet of climbing (The elevation function on both Garmin and Ride with GPS are acting up and this is an estimate).

Average speed 14.3 miles per hour

Weather: Mostly overcast with some sun. Temperature around 60 to start, up to around 75. Winds light and variable.

You can see the entire route to date here.

A Day Without Sunscreen . . .

Is actually pretty nice, as long as it doesn’t mean it was raining. Today we had one of those days: overcast all day, but no rain after a soaking we had overnight.

We started the day with breakfast at The Original Pancake House in Madison, where we had a nice chat with a couple from the area. They suggested we could have made this a tour of OPHs, which wouldn’t be a bad idea!

After breakfast, I enjoyed about 15 miles of Madison’s fine bicycle trails before heading out into the Wisconsin countryside.

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For any of you who ride through Madison (or any Wisconsin bicycle trail) note that passes are required to ride on trails. I learned this by being stopped about 100 feet before I left the trail, where I had to pay the $5 weekly pass. Actually, I was happy to pay, as the trails were so well maintained!

There was a noticeable change in the landscape between yesterday and today. Yesterday, we were clearly in rural farm country. Today, though I was still riding through lesser populated areas, the landscape was ex-urban rather than rural. There were plenty of farms, but they were cheek by jowl with suburban housing, best exemplified by this picture, showing a farm directly across the street from a suburban-type development.

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We also followed a river much of today. The Sugar River in southern Wisconsin and Northern Illinois is smaller and less dramatic than some of the rivers we followed out west, but has its own quiet charm.

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Later in the day, we crossed into Illinois with no fanfare. I wouldn’t have even noticed, but the road we were on (Rock County Highway K) suddenly became Winnebago County 21.

In Illinois, we continued our exploration of wineries (we’ve hit one in every state except South Dakota, which we missed because we didn’t have time to stop at the one we passed) and I continued my education in North American varietals. For you non-wine geeks, most wine is made from Vitis Vinifera, which has a Euro-Asian origin. Vitis Vinifera doesn’t grow well in cold climates, so wineries in the upper mid-west tend to rely on native North American varieties. After tasting wine from North American varieties in Minnesota, Wisconsin and Illinois over the last several days, I’m sticking with Vinifera wines!

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The barn motif of the winery captured a fairly stark change from Wisconsin to Illinois. The barns in Wisconsin, right up to the border, tended to be old style barns; as soon as we crossed into Illinois, the barns tended to be modern barns with aluminum siding. Many were not even barns — they were barn inspired structure used for other purposes, such as wine tasting rooms! You can see the shift in the pictures below.

Brooklyn, Wisconsin

Brooklyn, Wisconsin

Oregon, Wisconsin

Oregon, Wisconsin

Albany, Wisconsin

Albany, Wisconsin

Avon, Wisconsin

Avon, Wisconsin

Avon, Wisconsin

Avon, Wisconsin

Newark, Wisconsin

Newark, Wisconsin

Rockton, Illinois

Rockton, Illinois

The technical stuff:

Madison, Wisconsin to Rockford, Illinois

91.4 miles

2,740 feet of climbing (pay no attention to what is on the map below; my legs will tell you it is clearly wrong)

Average speed 14.6 miles per hour

Weather: Overcast all day, but no rain. Temperature in the 60s all day. Winds light from the north.

You can see the entire route to date here.